Known as Jamavar, the centuries-old technique of weaving used to create the intricate patterns in the throw was brought to Kashmir in the 15th Century under the patronage of one of the kingdom's most admired rulers, Zain-ul-Abdin.
The patterns are created using weft threads of various colors that do not run the full width of the fabric. Rather, they are woven back and forth in small areas to create the desired, tiny color blocks.
Jamavars became fashionable with European aristocracy in the 18th Century. Because of the costly weaving technique, the patterns often covered just the edges and ends of the shawls.
Even so, only the wealthiest people could afford them. The invention of the jacquard loom in the 19th Century meant that shawls with the traditional jamavar designs could be produced cost-effectively for a much larger market. And the motifs began to cover larger portions of the shawls.
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